Wind   SE  10 – 15  Sunny

Lovely outlook , lovely morning as we ate beans and bacon in the cockpit . Mt Kootaloo in the middle of the island dominated the scenery in the midst of lush green rainforest. All of us except Morgan went ashore for a short 30 minute beach and rainforest walk to Muggy Muggy beach round the north west corner.

Poor Morgan was so disappointed as she had to stay on the boat.on the return journey Leanne John and Stump strolled back along the beach in front of the devastated resort buildings to the cafe for a morning coffee.

Apparently the resort is slowly being rebuilt after damage from cyclone Larry and Yasi, the restaurant is up and running for private functions and the camping ground is functional. They still have a long way to go.

I decided to continue on and walk the 9 km circuit round the island and up to Mt Kootaloo with a height of 271 metres.

 

The more strenuous walk wound up through cool rainforest to the summit at 271 metres. Cyclone damaged rainforest on the lower slopes allowed glimpses over the island and reefs as the track ascended.

It was quite a climb but on reaching the top the view over the Family islands and nearby mainland was well worth it. Near the top the rusted remains of No. 27 radar station built during WW 11 to warn Australia of impending Japanese invasion  are slowly being reclaimed by the forest.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The walk was very peaceful with the occasional Bronze winged pigeon strutting up the path and one very dark green tree frog idling the day away in the middle of the track. I only met three people along the way and that was almost at the start so it was a solitaire trip.

 

 

 

 

 

 

While I was enjoying the solitude John and Steve had gathered about a dozen green coconuts and taken them back to the boat.

They husked them in the cockpit making a huge mess and unbeknown to them the fibres had begun to stain the boat. Everywhere the the fibres had been we had tea coloured non slip and gel coat. What a mess, it looked awful. It took a very potent product called 30 seconds which I assume contains bleach to get it off. The coconut milk and meat was beautiful though. Next time we will husk on the beach.

The boys had worked up quite a sweat sawing and prising the husk off the coconuts so it was time for liquid refreshments.

 

 

We dinghied ashore to the Sunset Bar for happy hour and an early dinner as we had all missed lunch. What a lovely setting overlooking the fish filled waters across to Mission Beach. the The tables and bar were sitting on the sand under the palm trees . What a beautiful setting.

The menu was limited but what they had looked very appetising and reasonably priced. Top of the list was Corona shells, a large clam shell shaped  bowl full of ice, king prawns and two coronas stuffed with limes. We couldn’t resist these so ordered two , plus salt and pepper squid and a reef and beef burger which Steve said was superb.

An excellent meal in excellent company with an excellent outlook was a fitting way to end Steve and Leannes visit on Ovive. Tommorow we take them across to Mission Beach so they can get a lift back to Townsville airport.

Wind   SE  15 – 20  Sunny slightly overcast  Low tide 19.01                    13  nautical miles

A bit of a change from  Wednesday night as a swell through the night kept us listening to various slapping noises and the sound of a humming in the topping lift as we had pulled it fairly tight. John cooked a mackerel and scallop mornay for breakfast which was absolutely delicious. We have been doing fairly well substituting rice flour instead of plain to cater for our gluten intolerant guest Leanne.

 

 

 

 

 

I paddle boarded across to some rubbish we could see floating to remove it from the water but as I got close I started to smell a rotten odour. On closer inspection ( not too close) it looked to be a very large amount of intestine bloated and gaseous from the heat. My legs started shaking as I imagined the mass with a school of sharks or a croc swimming below it so I didn’t get in real close. I’m guessing it was from a very large shark or a cow as there was quite a bit below the surface and although I could see into the water something heavier appeared to be anchoring the mass as it wasn’t drifting very fast.

I headed back to the safety of O’vive where we departed for Dunk.

We alternatively motored sailed with the jib and main up as the wind was mostly behind us.

Steve had the lures out and got bitten off once and caught the next 1.4 metre black tip reef shark which wore him out pulling it in. John wanted his lure back so they gaffed it in the soft part of its mouth and extricated the lure.

Surprisingly after being out of the water for 15 minutes, losing some teeth, having a large hole in his mouth and having a shot of vodka he took off like a shot when we dropped him back in the water.

Arriving at Dunk we hopped in the dinghy and went ashore to see how the rebuilding of the resort was progressing after cyclone Yasi had severely damaged the island in Feb 2011.

The resort and its surrounds were out of bounds however they do have a cafe open Fri, Sat and Sunday which we might check out tomorrow

I took Morgan for a play on the back beach as she isn’t allowed anywhere near the resort while John, Steve and Leanne went for a short walk as far as the airstrip and the no enter signs.

.We dinghied over to a cruiser Mac’s Pride who had invited us over for happy hour and yarned with them for a while. They had  a custom made stink boat about 45 ‘ which was nice but totally different from a sail boat, especially since it used 50 litres of diesel and hour.

Arriving back on Ovive to a very excited Morgan, John whipped up a huge batch of oyster kilpatrick which we ate for dinner along with some heated up venison stew. The last ashes test was on so John stayed up till 1:00 am watching it.

 

Wind   SE  10 – 15  Sunny slightly overcast  Low tide 16:30                      12 nm

What a calm night, no movement at all, the water was like glass when we awoke.

 

John and I checked the crab pots and who could guess ? no crabs in Hinchinbrook channel.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Stump cooked  bacon , eggs and beans for breaky then we up anchored and motored 4 nm to Gayundah creek to try for crags up there. Motoring up the mangrove lined creek looked very promising with swirls from fish or so we hoped, not crocs. Last time we were up this creek and crocodile was patrolling friends crab pots.

We dropped the pots off the back of Ovive then headed for the entrance as there were too many sandflies up the creek.

After anchoring back in the main channel  the boys and Morgan went fishing returning with no large fish tales and no crabs. The only thinh biting were the sandflies so it was time to leave Hinchinbrook although its magnificent backdrop would be missed.

We hauled up the sails and motored sailed up to Hecate point at the north weat tip of the island. From there to Gould island the wind was on the nose so we dropped the sails and motored across to Hayman pt on the tip of Gould where we anchored in 2 metres of water. As there had been no wind lately it was quite calm.

On arrival we dinghied ashore armed with oyster knives and containers .

Amongst the sandflies and occasional mozzie we gathered about 8 dozen oysters from the rocks on the low tide mark. Morgan chased fish or maybe nothing in the shallows and wore herself out.

Back on Ovive John prepared about a third of the oysters for the oyster Kilpatrick  however we are running out of Foxs special Worcestershire sauce and its a long way to Corryong to get more. The oysters were delicious followed by silverside and the remainder of the dumplings. Steve fished in between courses and only managed a small banded trumpeter.

 

 

Wind   SE  10 – 15  Sunny                       7 nm travelled

 

John and I checked the crab traps which unfortunately were totally empty just covered in a green slime before going ashore to the general store. We dinghied under the molasses and sugar wharves to the beach opposite the store making it a shorter distance to walk and a better place to pull the dinghy up. Morgan enjoyed a short play with a coconut on the beach while John grabbed the paper.

We up anchored after fish for breaky and motored in calm flat waters to Haycock island 7nm up the channel. We anchored in 6 metres of water on the northern end.

John and Stump put the traps out then went fishing. They caught a variety of small cod, flathead and barracouta but nothing large enough to bring home. John had a very large flathead on but it got off just as it came close to the dinghy.I’ve heard that one before!  Leanne and I enjoyed a relaxing afternoon on Ovive  although we were invaded by sandflies forcing us to cover up and close the screens.

Scallop and mackerel pot pies with salad for dinner followed by Steve’s favourite dessert golden syrup dumplings.

So far the Hinchinbrook channel does not look promising for hunting and gathering , the scenery is magnificent though.

Wind   SE  10 – 15  Sunny  23 nm

The morning dawned with little wind in the quiet bay so Morgan and I hopped on the paddle board and paddled ashore.

We glided over the top of two turtles which scooted off when we disturbed them, and viewed the very average looking coral. Onshore we wandered along the small sandy beach disturbing a shovel nosed ray basking in the shallows.

After a quick brekkie we pulled anchor and motor sailed across to Zoe Bay on the eastern side of Hinchinbrook.

 

 

Stump had the lures out and we got a large something on which he fought for 20 minutes, finally getting it to the boat to find it was  large black tipped reef shark about 1.3 metres long.  We had a lot of trouble getting the lure out without murdering the shark as Paul would put it, finally with the three of us working on it we freed the shark and got John’s favourite lure back.

So when the wind picked up we turned off the motors and hauled up the screecher.

Zoe Bay is a beautiful coconut palm and rainforest lined beach with a creek at each end of its long sandy stretch. The mountains rising in the centre of the island were sheathed in cloud and provided a dramatic background with Mt Bowen dominating at 1142 metres. We dropped the pick in 8 metres of water at the southern end of the bay and dinghied up the creek to the beautiful white sandy beach.

The mangrove lined creek was so clear you could easily see the bottom and hopefully any crocodiles in the vicinity. It is reputed that a crocodile has been sighted in the pool below the waterfall and Alan Lucas in his book says they are known to reside in the creek at the northern end of the bay.

We donned our hiking shoes or should I say sandals and mozzie repellent and started on the well signed track to Zoe falls. The walk was cool and quiet away from the ocean through palmed rainforest along the creek giving way to very dry schlerophyll which had some regrowth from recent fires.

 

The 20 minute walk was easy going and well defined with the only signs of wildlife the occasional scurrying lizard in the undergrowth.

 

 

The pool at the bottom of the falls was magical, the water clear as a bell. You could see the fish swimming around as if you were looking in a fish tank.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Three other people were there, two  having a swim so I thought it was safe for Morgan and I to enter the water. What a lovely refreshing feeling.

The couple also from a yacht anchored in the bay, said it was a short walk to the top of the falls so we headed upwards. It was a short walk alright but uphill all the way with some very steep and rocky inclines. At one spot there was even a thick rope to help you scale the rock.

The climb was well worth the effort as the view was stunning. In the distance the yachts bobbed at anchor and behind us majestic Mt Bowen towered behind the wispy clouds. Stump had a dip in the pool upstream as he felt the croc wouldn’t be able to climb that high up. We then  descended back down to the dinghy back through the cooling rainforest. Truly a magnificent place, where the mountains meet the sea.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Back on O’vive we hauled the main and sailed south to Lucinda dropping the anchor just near the molasses wharf at 4:00. You wouldn’t call it a picturesque anchorage but as they say any port in a storm although there wasn’t a storm. Our current outlook being huge sugar storage sheds, barges and a wharf.

We put the crab pots in then dinghied ashore and walked around the sugar sheds and over the footbridge to the Lucinda general store.

I was excited to see a shop but it had very little in it, Stump bought some fishing tackle and we all bought icecreams.

All up it was a disappointing place as the town did not seem anything special and we had no  crabs in the pots. Fillet steak for dinner instead of fish.

 

Wind   SE  15 – 20 Sunny  4.5 nm

Quite a noisy night as the wind didn’t abate and the swell was causing lots of things to bang and rattle. It was rather cool in the night and blowing a gale in our cabin as John had the hatch above our bed fully open.

We cooked up pork sausages, fried tomatoe and baked beans for breaky then went ashore to explore.

John and Stump dropped us girls off and then went for a troll with the lures in the hope of catching a coral trout. The beach was deserted with lizard tracks , debris and bleached shells above the high tide mark.

Morgan enjoyed herself exploring and chasing sticks while us girls looked for shells.

I found a lovely spider shell although I think part of the dead shellfish is still inside it. I will have to dry it out a lot so it doesn’t smell.

 

 

 

 

 

 

After our beach expedition John, Stump Morgan and I went for a fish over the coral in the dinghy still hoping for that coral trout. All the fish we pulled in were too small to keep except one Spanish flag that I caught.

John cooked us fish patties for lunch with the mackerel which were very tasty.

We pulled the anchor and sailed on the screecher up to Little Pioneer Bay on the top of Orpheus. James Cook uni has a research station on the southern end of the bay and there are four moorings on the northern end. We picked up the furthest mooring out and as it is a green zone could not fish.

Instead we put down the underwater camera and checked out the situation below, the coral wasn’t much to look at and only two fish swam past. So much for the protected zone.

Spanish Mackerel for dinner with another of Johns sauces, i think it was a french butter sauce with John’s special ingredients and chat tatties and fresh crisp vegies. We introduced Steve and Leanne to our favourite movie Captain Ron.

 

Wind   SE  15 – 20 Sunny  30nm

John cooked us delicious omelettes on board before we dinghied to shore to send Martin and Ed further north on their holiday.

We bundled their luggage and the seven of us into the dinghy and motored ashore for a last coffee together.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Back on Ovive we pulled the thermostat in the cold box out from behind the cooling fins and repositioned it elsewhere in the box in the hope that the pipes and unit would not freeze up anymore. It worked for a while but by the afternoon the pipes had started to freeze again so we had to defrost it as the fridge cant drop in temp as the compressor begins to short cycle. Guess we keep on experimenting.

 

 

Steve, Leanne, Morgan and I departed Magnetic at about 11:30  and just in the entrance to the bay a mother humpback and her calf were relaxing. They would come up and surface for a breath every few minutes then disappear. We turned the motors off and floated and watched them for a while, it was quite a treat for Steve and Leanne so early in the trip.

 

 

 

 

 

 

We hauled up the main and unfurled the jib in the hope of having a good sail but the winds were not as forecast in our area so John turned on the starboard motor as well. Steve put the rods out and not far out of Horseshoe we hooked a fish. There was mad panic as the jib was furled, the port motor started, the other rod reeled in and we turned up into the wind while Steve struggled to pull the fish in. It was hooked in the back so we were lucky to get it in and when it got close we could see it was a large Spanish mackeral, Johns second favourite.. What a beauty!

There was a swell running up the back transom so it was quite a job for John and Steve to get it in without getting washed overboard however with Leanne yelling encouragement  and me steering and taking photos the fish was finally gaffed and secured onboard.

 

 

 

 

 

It took some time to fillet on the back transom with John feeling somewhat green around the gills by the time the job was finished. The mackeral was between 25 – 30 lbs. There was a lot of meat on the skeleton so we cooked it on the barbie for lunch. Beautiful.

The rest of the afternoon was uneventful as we motor sailed past Palm island where John once drilled for a new dam. Palm is a very large granite based island with a sole indigenous population with a long difficult history. We anchored at 5:30 at Juno Bay off the northern end of Fantome Island just north of Palm in 10 metres of water.

We didn’t want to go further in due to to the coral bottom. John and I put the camera down and it seems we were anchored the bottom consists of sand and low lying coral outcrops. Stump fished while we cooked dinner but he only succeeded in catching a shark, red emporer and long finned cod, all too small. Dinner was a lovely piece of mackerel with  creamy pepper sauce, chat potatoes and salad before Leanne retired early and we played scrabble.

Wind  E – SE  15 – 20 Sunny

Everyone was a little slow to rise this morning, I think it must have been the jet lag. Breakfast was a variety of poached eggs, fruit and toast. We went ashore to pick up our hire cars at Nelly Bay This time we had what they call Topless, which is a small soft top Daihatsu . We hired two of them at $89 per day and an extra $10 if you wanted it for a 24 hr period.  Martin and Ed hired thiers for the 24 hours so they could drive to the ferry terminal in the morning.

We toured the island stopping at Geoffrey Bay and watched the large diamond back mullet swimming close to the old ferry jetty and large bright blue green parrot fish. We stopped at the half a dozen shops to post Abe’s birthday present and buy ice creams and water then toured onto Picnic Bay. Our coral trout lunch at the R & R restaurant was very tasty although the battered coral trout was heaps better than the grilled.

While the boys and Ed had another beer Leanne and I walked up the dry rocky path to Hawkins lookout.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The walk was hot and dry with some spectacular views over to the east and west to Townsville.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Back on Ovive while waiting for roast lamb to cook fishing was on in earnest. They got snapped off a few times until John put a 5 ” hook onto 100lb line and whammo something fighting fit and large hooked up. Stump eventually got it in after it gave him and his hands some grief but it was only a giant salmon catfish, about  25lb. They can get up to 3.8 metres in length and give you a good fight.

We enjoyed the lamb and chocolate mousse with strawberries for dessert then it seemed cards were not an option as most of us were too tired and retired early.

Wind  E – SE  15 – 20 getting up to 25 in the am     Sunny

Finally on the move  again after getting some more essentials and filling up with water and fuel.

We all gathered at  the Longboard Bar and Grill overlooking Magnetic for a lovely breakfast , with the southerners once again reveling in the warm sunshine.

Left the marina at 1:00 and intermittently sailed and motor sailed across to Maggie. The promised wind did not happens until we cleared Cape Cleveland then we managed 8  knts, a little too  fast for the lures though. We sailed past Magnetic in the hope of seeing whales or catching fish. Martin and Stump (Steve) diligently watched  the rods on the back deck but we didn’t even get a touch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Arrived at Maggie at 3:30 and anchored in our favourite spot just off the boat ramp out of the jetski area and in .9 of water at two hours after low tide.

 

After getting organised we went ashore to the Marlin Bar in the dinghy for an early happy hour .

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The vista as usual was magnificent with the yachts quietly anchored in Horseshoe Bay and the Stone Curlews coming out on dusk to scab chips. The meals were very tasty especially the marinara with real scallops and coral trout.

We were back on Ovive reasonably early in time for cards and fishing. The dinghy and its 4 hp motor is doing very well carrying six adults and Morgan to and from shore.

More drinks ( well lots more for some) while we played Black bitch and Martin fished. He only caught small yellow lipped bream but got broken off by something quite large, probably a shark.

At 10:30 we turned in as Leanne’s and my eyes were drooping and John was trying to ruin Eds chances of winning. The rum bottle was quite low by the time John and Steve had fished with it, Steve putting that down to the first day of his holidays.

Wind  SE  10 knts Sunny

Woke up to another lovely day although the wind had developed . It is getting stronger again by the day. Very hard to notice it though as this part of Townsville is very sheltered. Must be why it is an acceptable cyclone rated marina for insurance companies.

Martin Ed Morgan John and I strolled along the Strand to the cafe near the Tobruk Memorial pool. Apparently this pool was a favoured training pool for Olympians such as Murray Rose and Dawn Fraser when it was too cold to train in Sydney back in the days when pools weren’t heated .

We enjoyed coffee and toasted sandwiches for breaky with Martin and Ed luxuriating in the lovely warm climate.

We paid a visit to Reef HQ which is supposed to have one of the worlds finest coral  aquariums. It was pretty good, we saw tanks full of live colourful coral and multitudes of different coloured fish darting in and out. Some tanks held freshwater varieties with a very large barramundi and small croc while others displayed the poisonous and dangerous creatures including sea snakes and stone fish.

The large predators tank with giant trevally, sharks, cod, rays and Ross the turtle was pretty impressive and well worth the look. They have a turtle rehabilitation centre but I didn’t have time to visit that area which was a shame.

Back on O’vive I sewed a temporary cover for my paddle board so its doesn’t get sunburnt and washed the boat and dinghy.

Martin picked up Steve and Leanne from the airport so it was an excellent  excuse for John to down some beers or was it many beers?

Instead of going out we ordered take away pizza for delivery to the marina and we sat in the cockpit and drank, ate and laughed.