The forecast was for SE winds 10 – 15 knts but as usual the weather bureau was wrong, we only had winds of 5 – 10 knts. I think we need to be out much wider to get the stronger winds.

Leaving Cape Cap at 7:30 we headed for the marina at Rosslyn Bay, Yeppoon as most importantly John had run out of red wine. We also wanted to top up on supplies and water.

The entrance to the marina must have been dredged since we were here last time as we went in at half tide and had 2.7 of water under the keel. We tied up in white 31 the furthermost pontoon on the marina. Quite a hike to get to the facilities, office and restaurant.

After paying for our berth at $102 per night which I thought was quite reasonable for Queensland.( I expect much higher fees as we get further north) we headed straight for the Waterline café and ordered prawn and scallop dumplings for lunch.

The washing was doing its dance in the laundry machines, so we dawdled on lunch until it was finished, then it was back to Ovive to wash the salt off the boat and Mulligan Geo work.

We had an excellent meal back at Waterline  in the evening of tender fillet steak cooked by a very proficient Japanese chef.

Breaky of eggs bacon and mushrooms before we pulled the anchor at 7:30. The others didn’t seem to be leaving yet as they had crab traps to pull in.

The wind was forecast 10 – 15 knts but didn’t do anything until 1:00.

We hoisted the screecher but could only manage 6 knts with the starboard motor running. The lure was out all day with not a touch.

Negotiating the anchoring ground for the bulk carriers waiting off Gladstone harbour was interesting as we could see what ports they were registered to even though they wouldn’t be taking their cargo anywhere near there.

The main cargoes loaded are coal, bauxite and caustic soda.

A lot of merchant ships flying Panama’s flag belong to foreign owners who wish to avoid the stricter marine regulations imposed by their own countries. Those registered in Monrovia, Liberia started as tax dodge for U.S.-based ship owners could crew their vessels without being subject to U.S. taxation. Now is just anyone who wants to avoid responsibility and liability for their ships that aren’t well maintained. Liberia make a reasonable amount of money out of this business though.

We reached Cape Capricorn at 3;30 and anchored in 3.7 metres of water  affair way off the rocky beach below the slide rail and lighthouse.

Cape Capricorn has a lighthouse on it only accessible by boat or helicopter.. It was named by Captain Cook when he passed on 25 May 1770, since he found it to be located on the Tropic of Capricorn, however since then it’s been surveyed and the actual tropic of Capricorn  is slightly south of the cape.23°30.

After lowering the dinghy, the three of us went ashore to explore in the last daylight hour.

There was a concrete walkway that led to the beach below the slide rail but it had broken and fallen apart since we were here in 2009. It was quite difficult for Morgan to manage it with her sore back she seems to have from all the fish chasing yesterday.

We didn’t attempt the walk to the lighthouse as there was not enough time. I walked up a short way, the view was fantastic.

A very stinky dead turtle.

Ovive in the background

We dined on tuna with lime pepper cream sauce and chips for dinner.

My blog always seems to start with the same. so today we will go straight to the interesting stuff.

I wont tell you we worked till 9 am before organising ourselves for a fishing and crabbing expedition. Oops

The dinghy was loaded with rods, bait, Morgan and the only two crab pots we have onboard,

With a tidal range of 2.3 metres we  needed to find a spot our traps wouldn’t be out of water at low tide, I put mine in a little too close to the mud bank believing that was the spot and John deployed his in deeper water. We only had one mullet between both pots (we should have kept yesterdays tuna skeleton) and were hoping for crabs for dinner.

The water was  clear and visibility to the bottom was great although it looked rather barren. Didn’t look like crab habitat either. We  tried fishing but there were no fish.

We headed out the estuaray towards the mouth where we could see outcrops of coral and as we passed over the deeper areas and fish darting between them. Dropping a line I caught a Monocle Bream which went straight into the bucket. Johns line was twisted badly from trolling so he was unable to fish. He kept the dinghy in position for me to fish though I didn’t catch anything more, got snagged on coral a couple of times and gave up.

Oh well back to the boat  for morning tea or early lunch of pancakes. A fitting morning tea for the location.

Once the tide dropped to low we motored to shore and scoured the mud flats for crabs, couldn’t find any. Last time we were here I watched a couple pick two up from the small  depressions in the sand. I think there are more people getting to Pancake these days. There was even a bunch of professional fishermen netting mullet and whatever else they could get.

Doug seraching the tidal pools for crabs.

Morgan and I wandered for a couple of hours along the mud flats, she chasing small fish and me looking for crabs.

She had a wonderful time, I could hardly get her to head home.

The water was so clear running over the sand.

I found one small crab camouflaged in the sand and Debra found one large one but it was a jenny and female crabs cant be taken in Queensland.

My pot at low tide.

The water goes out a long way .

We came back along the beach behind the mangroves which we wont do again as there were fallen trees across the sand strip and no access through the mangroves back to the sand flats. We walked for about 40 minutes before I decided that was enough and we would try going through the mangroves. Morgan found it very difficult as struggled to climb over and under their intricate roots system.

John picked us up in the dinghy once we reached the water on the sand flats and we headed off to pick up the traps before leaving in the morning.

We could only find my trap, empty of course and John’s seemed to have disappeared under the water with the rising tide.

The next morning Wayne found our float but no trap, we reckon someone ran the rope over and cut it leaving the trap below.

Back to the boat it was roast chicken and baked vegies for dinner in preparation for an early start for the next leg.

I got up at 5:30 and decided to take advantage of the internet and catch up on some blogs as I’m way behind. I only got one completed before the sky began to lighten. Looking outside I noticed Nyeki had gone and so had Eva Louise.

I started the motors, turned on the instruments and went and woke the captain. Time to head north.

We motored towards the rising sun through the red and green channel markers to get to deeper water. There was very little wind and a sloppy sea. After hauling up the gennaker we were off on a heading of 309 ° doing 6 knts.

Breakfast on the run of weetbix for the skipper, none for Morgan.

The lure was deployed and we settled in for a long slow day.

Debra texted me telling me they were on the board and sent a photo of their Mackeral Tuna they had caught. (good for bait, not much good for eating).

Fortunately it didn’t take long until we had a fish on but by the time we furled the sail and John got back to the rod he had gone.

The second one we almost got to the boat but once he sighted the boat, he took off along with lots of profanities from John. We did get a look at him and a short video for proof – Johns favourite Spanish Mackerel.

Fish number 3 didn’t get near the boat, by the time we had slowed the boat furled the sail he had gone. This was starting to get frustrating.

Number 4 wasn’t as lucky, everything went right and after a good fight and heightened blood pressure in John, he landed a 4kg Long Tailed Tuna (Northern Bluefin).

He (the fish) was given the life expiring vodka , then John filleted him so we could have Sashimi later.

After all that excitement we pulled in the lure and upped the revs on the motors to get to Pancake Creek before dark.

Dolphins came along and played on the bows which entertained us for at least 20 minutes.

There was even time to sleep during the days activities.

On arrival at the entrance to Pancake Creek we followed the buoys in. They have changed position since we were last here in 2015.

Bustard Head was named by Captain James Cook in 1770, in honour of a bustard which was shot and eaten by the landing party. The lighthouse was built in 1857. We walked up to the lighthouse in 2009 when we stopped at Pancake.

Pancake Creek has no bar to cross and the channel is well marked . Once inside its a very protected anchorage and a magnificent place to stay for a few days. The only way into Pancake is from the ocean, it has no road access, hence the reason they had to take John out by boat in 2015 when he had chest pains.

We cut the Tuna into fine slices and drizzled with lime juice and olive oil, added some advacado and soy sauce to the platter and called up the others for a happy hour sashimi feast. It was absolutely delicious. The photo doesn’t do it justice. Sorry its blurred.

All the beer drinkers were a bit slow on the uptake this morning but after a conference call we decided it best to head for the Burnett River which runs up to Bundaberg to take advantage of the winds.

We headed off at 8:30 in light winds, hoisted the gennaker or screecher and headed towards Bundy.

Eva Louise with Doug , Sandra and Roxy in front, with Deb and Wayne on Nyeki slightly behind.

Sailing was smooth and uneventful, a good day for resting, eating, photography and knitting.

Taken from the escape hatch in the starboard hull

We had a fish on at one stage but by the time we furled the sail he had gone.

We arrived at the entrance to the Burnett River at 4:30, and anchored alongside the shipping channel on the southern side, not far from the marina.

The approach to the Burnett River

I cant remember what we had for dinner as I forgot to jot down notes for this day.

The morning dawned with an eerie fog bank along the edge of Fraser.

By 8 am it had cleared to make way for an excellent day. After bacon sandwiches with that delicious new bacon from Tin Can Bay, we hauled up the anchor.

Progress was slow with only 3.1 knots speed, even running with the outgoing tide.

 The decaying remains of McKenzie jetty—a reminder of the island’s logging history.

Next stop, Kingfisher Island resort for coffee and hot chocolate. Morgan isn’t allowed on Fraser due to its World Heritage wilderness status and protected dingo habitat, so we left her to guard the boat.

As we pulled the dinghys up the beach we were greeted by Sue and Tony Smith from Yamba, what a surprise. They were spending a week on Fraser, small world!

Deb and Wayne

We strolled through the semi tropical vegetation to the resorts main hub and that was the day done as coffee didn’t happen it was straight to beers.

We ordered nibbles, chicken wings and chips with beers and enjoyed the luxury of the resort overlooking the pool.

Kingfisher is a world renowned , well planned  aesthetic eco resort, with a bit of a problem with their dingoes.

I went for a walk through the scrub back to the beach to see how the boats were and found the resort is surrounded by a 6’ high fences and gates to keep the dingoes out. If you walk along the beach they encourage you to take a 1.5metre long piece of conduit with you to keep the dingoes at bay should they approach you.

In my absence the others had relocated to the sunset bar on the jetty so I left them to continue and took the dinghy back to Ovive and Morgan where I completed some office work.

Ovive 4th from the left, Eva Louise next to her.

At 5:oclock  I headed back to the bar where quite a few groups and couples were enjoying sunset drinks. From down on the beach, I could hear the laughter and frivolity from our group and the empty glasses on their table told a tale.

We stayed a while longer at the bar then said farewell to Sue and Tony and went back to our boats.

A lovely calm morning dawned , and guess what we  still had power. Yahoo. I don’t like being anchored up  a channel without an anchor light.

After breakfast of bacon, eggs and fried potato we followed the Eva Louise crew across the shallow water to a park not far from the Tin Can Bay supermarket. We needed milk and a few other items. The tide was rapidly falling so we left John in charge of the dinghies to keep them floating while we hiked to the shops. It was only a 7 minute walk however we couldn’t buy too much as we had to carry it back. To my delight they had an excellent butcher where I stocked up on home smoked bacon crumbed cutlets and steak. Tonight was the 60M powerball so Sandra and I both bought tickets but unfortunately only managed a slight win, mine didn’t even cover the cost of my ticket.

After unpacking the groceries we caught the last of the outgoing tide and very, very slowly headed down the inlet to Wide Bay Bar then onwards through the Sandy straights inside Fraser Is.

Washing day

The afternoon was frustrating as the wind was fickle and weak. The gennaker had to be moved from side to side, giving us 2 knts of speed. We had very little wind so eventually furled the sails and motored.

As we neared Sheriden Flats which is notoriously shallow, we watched Nyeki who was just ahead of us run aground. Then Eva Louise grounded blocking the narrow channel. There was already a mono which was hard aground in the channel which seemed to have caused the problem. Both Nyeki and Eva Louise managed to get off the sandbar leaving the mono still stranded ,waiting for the tide to rise. We wisely followed their path and couldn’t claim any grounding rights this time.

 

We anchored at 4:30 just south of White cliffs on the western side of Fraser. John dropped a fishing line in and caught absolutely nothing.

The lamb cutlets for dinner with mashed potato and gravy were the best I’ve had in years.

I woke up at 5 am to a small disaster. It was dark, too dark on the boat, there should have been some glow at least from the anchor alarm and power boards. Our anchor light at the top of the mast wasn’t even on. Nothing was operating, the fridge, cold box and feezer were all off. The Enerdrive system was flat. John got up and started the genset with the emergency parallel switch and slowly power seeped  back into the batteries. After a short while we were able to start the fridges again. We couldn’t work out why we had run out of power. Doug came over and we spent 4 hours trying to diagnose the issue.

 It seems the start battery for the engines is failing and draining the power out of the house batteries.

Meanwhile the hunters and gatherers from Nyeki had  been out catching flathead  and flounder, doing a lot better than us.

Well after the mornings electrical session Doug and John were thirsty, so we jumped into our dinghys and headed up Snapper Creek to the Tin Can Bay Yacht club. The fare was good but a little overpriced for what we received.

Following lunch and beers we dinghied  further  up the creek past plenty of  moored boats to the marina and filled the jerries with diesel and unleaded for the dinghy motor. Sandra and I sneaked 80 litres of water in jerries while no one was watching. We need to unpickle our water maker and get it going again. It will mean we wont need to carry so much water either.

Tonights fare was Irish stew, Johns favourite, the Mulligans are Irish, what can you expect!

As usual I was up at 5:30 at the computer attending to Mulligan Geo requirements as the morning dawned into a beautiful day. It was flat and calm in the lagoon.

The only down side to this anchorage was an Osprey attempting to make a nest on the top of the mast. He dropped his rather large stick onto the top of the saloon which made me realise he was up there. A quick duck outside to shoo him away by rattling the shrouds.

Ten minutes later he was back trying to continue to build his nest on the top of Eva Louise mast. This went on for a while, everytime they landed us and Eva Louise crew would go out and shake the shrouds once he arrived. Doug and Sandra had quite a collection on the top of their mast.

Doug hauled Sandra up their mast so she could de nest it, I know thats not a word , Ive just added it to the Mulligan dictionary. There was a large collection of heavy stick Sandra needed to throw off.

Its a long way up when you have a 21 metre mast.

Ovive from the top of Eva Louise mast Photography Sandra Jenkins

Once the nest was removed we went ashore for a walk, not much to see as its mostly sand and vehicle tracks other than millions of soldier crabs. A second lagoon is forming on the outside of the current lagoon, its too shallow at the moment and diffcult to get into.

Soldier crabs marching along

As soon as we reckoned there was enough water to motor out of the lagoon we left with a lot of trepidation after our close encounter with the sandbar yesterday. There wasn’t much water but enough to get us all through without touching.

Because the wind and sea state was very mild we figured instead of crossing the notorious Wide Bay bar the recommeded way, we would try the fishermans gutter an alternate where obviously the fisherman go through the majority of the time. We had no track through, so Nyeki led following another cat which had gone through earlier than us. The water became choppy and rough as we crossed into the channel of the bar. I stood up front on the bows to keep an eye out for shallow water however it was difficult to see as the water was so choppy. At one stage John yelled out .5 depth , lucky the waves wern’t any larger or we may have touched bottom in the trough. The depth increased as we headed further into the channel between Fraser Island and the mainland.

Morgan was the only one who put her life jacket on.

I saw recently Fraser has had its name changed to K’Gari, with a silent K, I think i’ll still be calling it Fraser.

There was little wind so we motored up the inlet to Tin Can Bay. The tide was high so it was difficult to find a place to anchor that wasnt going to dry at low water. We anchored not far from a boat that hadnt anchored at the right depth and keeled over. I am sure we were deep enough.

A call from Doug had us dinghying over to Eva Louise for happy hour before returning back to Ovive for poirk steaks apples and steamed vegies.

Watched another episode of Arnold Schwarzenegger on Netflix.

Calm waters of Tin Can Bay Inlet

We woke up to a lovely calm morning off Rainbow Beach with a minor swell. The spectacular eroded  cliff lines towered above the beach showing off their coloured sands. Very impressive.

After scambled eggs for breakfast we lowered the dinghy and took a reconaissence trip into the lagoon to look for somewhere to safely anchor. There was a large coffee rock in the middle of the entrance about 1.5 metres under the water, deep enough for us cats to get over on a rising tide.

We waited for the tide to rise enough before we entered the lagoon as there is a sand spit on the eastern side and a rock in the middle of the entrance. Nyeki led the way because they had entered last year although the channel changes daily. Debra said ‘avoid the sandbar on the eastern side and go in close to the beach side’.

John didn’t want to get too close to the beach as the depth sounder was showing very shallow water , we draw  1.25 m whereas  Nyeki draws 1.2 . Unfortunately for us again, we ran aground on that sandbar. We were fairly stuck but luckily on a rising tide. Eva Louise stayed out the front waiting for us to get off. As each wave rose under Ovive John gave the motors a burst in reverse and finally we were free. There was not much room between the shore and us as we gingerly motored through followed by Eva Louise.

The anchorage inside the lagoon was flat and calm . There were roughly a dozen boats already anchored with plenty of room for us . We headed for the eastern end to give room to others.

The remainder of the day was filled with beachwalking , fishing, repairs and of course happy hour at sunset. Deb and Wayne foraged around the lagoon and came home with a small trevally, a flounder which they gave to John and a mud crab they caught in their pot.