16th October Gloucester Passage To Airlie Beach

Sunny Winds 15 – 20 – 25 SE                                     20 nautical miles

Another early start to try and miss the strong winds so we headed out of Gloucester passage at 5 for the short hop to Airlie Beach. The wind was already blowing through the passage as we passed sleepy yachts bobbing at anchor so it didn’t bode well for what was ahead.  Coming out of the passage the wind was right on the nose forcing us to hug the coast and motor round the edge of  Shoal bay. We managed to have a bowl of porridge as it was relatively tucked in behind George Point. We passed between Saddleback Island and George Point then out into  the wind again. There was no point in pulling the sails as we were directly into the wind and waves.

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leaving Gloucester, it doesnt even look rough in the photos

Once again we bashed our way south, down to Woodwark Bay , the last bay before  Pioneer Bay the home port of Airlie. Round the point of Woodwark the wind had pushed the waves up into a very uncomfortable steep choppy sea.  Once we turned towards Abell Point Marina we were able to unfurl the jib and sail.

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the drege has moved and is now an obstacle to get around

We were almost at the marina and it was only 9.30 so we booked the fuel wharf for 10 and were very grateful to the marina them for letting us into our berth  early. Normally checkin is at 12:00 as outgoing boats depart at 11.

We berthed in R3 and 4 the last finger before the shore. Last time we were here it was mostly mud especially at low tide. The dredge has done a great job since then as we had 2 metres on water under us as we maneuvered into our berth.

We have a week before Dave and Laura arrive and a lot of paperwork to do in between.

We also need to :

Replace the boom vang  on the foot of the mainsail

Replace the bridal

Replace the oil in the port saildrive

Recalibrate the wind instrument

Replace rivets on the gooseneck

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John cooked us Spanish mackeral with a ginger, garlic, honey sauce which he made up and  was absolutely delicious

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15th October Upstart to Gloucester Passage

We figured we needed to leave early to cover some miles before the wind became too strong. Just on daylight we upped anchor and headed off passing three other boats with their occupants snugly tucked up in bed. The plan  didn’t really work because by the time we had gone an hour south the wind was already picking up.

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Mt Luce where John and crews were drilling in 2010

We headed out to the east to get an angle to clear the headlands and capes and hopefully clear Abbot Point. Well we bumped and bashed and rolled along managing 8 knots but then getting slower as the day wore on.

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ships anchored waiting to load up at Abbot Point

We got a good look at the Abbot Point coal loading facility, I thought we were aiming to dock alongside the bulk carriers at one stage.

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Abbot point Coal loading facility

 

 

We tacked away from the wharf and headed towards the northen tip of Gloucester Island. Bashing into the shallow waves in Edgcombe Bay was not very pleasant but finally we got into slightly protected waters and the sea flattened. It was a relief to arrive at Gloucester passage and drop anchor off the eco resort among seven other boats. We found we had anchored next to Clear Horizons a boat we had spent time with in Island Head creek months ago.

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To be anchored at last

The wind was still howling but the waters were flat. We put the bridle onto the anchor chain but 5 minutes later with a loud crack it snapped on both sides. We thought it was the stitching but when we had recovered it and John tied the bridle back on with a bowline, it promptly snapped again. I guess snatching straps do not like UV and salt water. John made up a temporary rope bridal.

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Cape Gloucester Eco resort

We took Morgan ashore for a well earned walk, she hasn’t been on land for two days . She charged up and down the beach running in the shallows and going mad. John and I bought a beer and a Kahlua at the Eco resort then ambled further along the beach to Monte’s for an early dinner. The sun dropped over the horizon as we ate sticky pork stir fry at table that wasn’t moving.

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Montes

14th October Magnetic to Cape Upstart

Wind ESE 15 – 20     70 nautical miles

Another early start except John had layn awake some part of the night worrying that we didn’t have enough fuel to push south against the wind. He decided he needed fuel so went ashore with 4 jerrys or jugs as the yanks call them and attempted to get a lift to Nelly bay where the fuel station was. Not much hope, so he paid a hippy in a campervan $50 to drive him the 8 kms . They ended up going to a servo at Picnic Bay 10kms instead, as the one at Nelly Bay wasn’t open.

John arrived back at 7:30 and we refilled the diesel tanks. Paul on Moor R & R had a bag of Schmackos on board for Morgan so a mid water transfer ensued with the landing net and John motoring up to the back of Moor R & R. Paul and I transferred the goodies and Morgan was one happy pooch. Thanks Uncle Paul.

Schmackos 1

Schmackos 2

 

 

 

 

Photos courtesy of Kath

 

The day started reasonably well and we averaged 7 knts for a while , however we had to steer a course between 60 and 80 to use the wind. This was taking us far away from the land and it seemed we would be all day zig zaging and not making much progress south.

O’vive was taking a beating as we bashed across and into the waves, the wind instrument gave up on us and told us we had winds speeds of 250 to 300. I don’t think so. The direction pointer couldn’t seem to reflect the correct direction at all. At least we had the wind vane on top of the mast.

It seemed to take us forever to clear Cape Bowling Green and get enough angle to sail down to Upstart, each wave we bashed into the boat shuddered and objects inside jumped and rolled. The strap that holds the clew of the mainsail and outhaul to the boom snapped with a great bang so John and I climbed onto the rolling roof and effected repairs with a spare rope.

It was the worst day we had had so far this sailing season.  The oncoming swell was topped with white caps sending spray over the bows and up to the cockpit.

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Sunset over Bowling Green

We arrived at Upstart at 5:30 feeling very weary so we reheated the remains of the irish stew.

13th October Dunk to Magnetic

Wind 10 – 15 Sunny 81 nautical miles

Up early to avoid some of the wind although today’s weather was forecast for lighter winds. We looked around and could count about five boats that had already departed. Seems we were last to leave of those going south. Never mind we’ll overtake them.

We had a pleasant motor sail averaging 7 knts with the main and jib up as we crossed towards Cape Richards on the eastern end of Hitchinbrook. By now at least three of the boats were behind us and we were closing the gap between the other two.

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Palm Island

Sailing down past Orpheus and Palm Islands the wind swung further east and we managed a good run into Magnetic dropping anchor about 6.15.

To our delight we discovered Moor R & R  anchored in the bay having spent last night at Orpheus. A phone call told us they were waiting for us with full pints of Great Northern at the bar on shore. The three of us hopped in the dinghy and were greeted on shore by Paul and his mate Phil. Morgan was overjoyed to see someone she knew especially someone who carries Schmackos in his pocket.

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The two crews

It was really good  to see Paul and Kath again and enjoy their company whilst eating freshly made seafood pizzas.

12th October Cairns to Dunk Island

Wind 10 – 15 knts SE  sunny with 60% chance of rain  82 nm

The morning was overcast and threatening rain as we departed Cairns for the last time. We are heading south to rendezvous in the Whitsundays with Dave ( Johns mate) and his daughter Laura. Departing at 6:00 we headed out and up the shipping channel then turned east towards Fitzroy island with both motors at 1600 revs and the main and jib up. As the wind was from the south east we made good time averaging 7 knts.  Some squalls came our way but didn’t dampen our spirits only the boat.

At Fitzroy Is we turned south so the wind and waves were almost on the nose, we were getting down to 3.9 knots at times, far to slow to get anywhere.  We tacked towards New Zealand, or so it felt like we going there, then tacked  back to Australia then out again.The further south we traveled  the sea conditions improved with the wind swinging slightly round to the east.

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Me preparing the dinner as we sai along lIrish stew in the pressure cooker

We finally arrived at Dunk at 8 pm  and dropped the anchor off the beach in beautiful calm water. It had been a long day beating against the wind and waves with the last leg in the dark but we finally made it. Irish stew for dinner as we were too lazy to cook a fish meal.

11th October Michaelmas to Cairns

Wind 15 – 20 knts sunny with 70% chance of rain

The sun shone over the reef this morning giving us a clearer view of everything. We had the anchorage all to ourselves except for the thousands of noisy birds which inhabit the cay. Some even decided Ovive might be a good spot to alight.

Breakfast consisted of what else ? Fish ! The tuna cooked up quite well although a little dry.

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We fed our fishy friends again, captivated by the large school of sweetlip hanging around. There must have been at least 40 of them vying for scraps, then hoping for more.

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John took Mick and Roz ashore for a swim and a snorkel while I donned my wetsuit and snorkelled over to my favourite spot which was not far from the mooring buoy.

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starting to get crowded

Once again I was delighted to see the variety of fish hanging around the coral. I saw all the large parrot and trigger fish I saw last time as well as schools of sweetlip and smaller reef dwellers.

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the water is murky due to the sand stirring up from the  wave action

 

 

 

 

 

 

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The giant clam

 

 

 

 

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magnificent patterns and colouring

I spied a very large light coloured coral trout under an overhang accompanied by a another large speckled fish that resembled a cod of some variety. Every time I dived down to get a photo he tucked himself further under the ledge, I managed one photo but not good quality especially as the wind and waves were stirring up the sand. My estimate was he measured approx 80 cm in length and quite deep in the body.

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his tail

 

 

 

 

 

 

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he is still trying to hide

John got his James Bond toy out ( well he calls it that) the sea scooter and zoomed ashore just like 007 would, to give to Mick who enjoyed scooting over the coral.

 

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Nemo

 

 

 

 

 

 

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my taxi, looks like a large mast on that dinghy

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Oh snorkelling is so tiring, not sure how Morgan got tired though

We departed Michaelmass about one and headed towards Cairns with the lures out. Not far from Upulo Cay we hooked a Spanish Mackerel and then it was the usual procedures of Jenny take the helm, Roz get what she is told to ( knife, filleting board, bucket etc) and the boys bring the fish in. He was a lovely Spaniard , John’s favourite. After filleting him we put the rods away as we didn’t need any more fish and concentrated on getting back to Cairns. Cargo ships and tankers were were busy departing the area so we had to make sure they weren’t on a collision course.

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Fish for breakfast

We arrived in Cairns at 5:00 and berthed on E finger at Marlin Marina. Fairly expensive for one night at $133. Steve Reynolds formerly of Drill Search was in Cairns at the time and dropped in to see us.

 

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does this dog get spoilt

After filling the water tanks, washing the boat, washing the clothes and sheets, getting some supplies from Woolies and sending Mick and Roz to their motel we rejoined them for dinner at a Japanese restaurant on the Pier above the marina. The food was excellent made all the more pleasurable as Mick paid for it. We had a fantastic week with Mick and Roz and were glad we could finally get out to the reef with them.

Rain fell quite heavly in the night.

10th October Yorkeys Knob to Michaelmass

Wind 15 – 20 knts sunny with 90% chance of rain

We have woken up to another windy day, yet its time to head out to the reef so Mick and Roz can get a sail and a fish in before their holiday ends. It was 9:30 by the time we cast off the mooring lines and headed out into a fresh breeze of 17 knts. Across the shallow water through the channel markers the swell was about 1 metre and lumpy but settled down a bit when we got more depth under us.

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the sunscreen ritual

We hauled up the main and jib and headed due east towards Arlington Reef where we hoped to stop near Oyster Cay for a fish somewhere out of the green zone.

The sailing in this direction was excellent reaching along between 6 and 8 knts. We didnt want to go any faster as both lures were out the back trying to tempt fish to have a go. A storm appeared on the horizon so we dropped the main and sailed on the jib.

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a bulk carrier loaded with pine logs crossing our path rather close

As we neared Arlington Reef we got lucky and hooked a very nice size Yellow finned Tuna. Mick reeled it in while the jib was furled and the other line brought in so it didn’t tangle with the fish. John gaffed the fish, brought it on board and filleted it colouring the white transom with crimson blood.

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only the beginning of the crimson tide

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By the time John had cleaned and filleted the fish we were almost in the buoyed channel marking the way into Arlington Reef. Another squall arrived reducing visibility to almost nothing as we searched for a place to drop anchor somewhere away from the reef. The anchor was dropped in 9 metres of water just off Oyster Cay and the bait lines went in while Roz and I prepared lunch.

John caught a variety of smallish fish, coral cod, fusileer and sweetlip but nothing large enough for the barbeque. ( we only keep the really big ones these days.).

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Beautiful coloured Coral Cod

With lunch over we upped anchor and headed for Michaelmass Cay, distance of 2 nm arriving just as another squall swept in with a vengeance.

Mick and I were up the front trying to pick up the tether on the mooring buoy but the strong storm winds kept blowing Ovive past the buoy just as Mick and I were in reach of grabbing it. The horizontal rain pelted Mick and I as we struggled to grab the rope and pull the heavy mooring line up over the front roller. Eventually after several attempts and a lot of cursing from John we managed and all was secure just as the storm passed. Morgan and Roz had dived for cover when John started cussing and weathered out the storm inside. The three of us were cold and soaked to the skin so we enjoyed a lovely warm shower. ( not together).

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Morgan and her friends
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Sweetlip L Bat fish R

We berlied scrap pieces of bread and tuna and once again were delighted by the large bat fish that came up to the transom . They have such gentle looking faces and a rather trusting nature that enabled me to touch them.

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Decent sized sweetlip in schools

 

We were awed by the dark coloured Amberjack and Giant Trevally that fought for scraps and disappointed that we couldnt put a line in and catch the extra large sweetlip that jostled for food. Morgan just loves this place and spends her time whining and wanting to lick the fish.

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John made Sashimi with the Tuna for happy hour

Happy hour started a little early at 4:00 followed by a game of Black Bitch and Nominations.

A simple meal of steak and steamed vegies was quickly cooked up after dark as we had pigged out earlier on happy hour food.

At high tide there was little protection from the swell so we had a rolly night on the mooring buoy.

9th October Yorkeys Knob

Overcast 20 – 25 knts

Today we decided that we should go somewhere we hadn’t been before. So after John and Mick cooked breakfast we drove Mick’s hire car  to Hartley’s Crocodile Adventures  about 40 minutes north of Cairns, along the road to Port Douglas.

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the crocodile dundees

It was an excellent place to see crocodiles close up and other local wildlife.We strolled along  timber boardwalks and pathways leading  through woodlands and rainforest and viewed tropical birds, reptiles and native fauna.

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Jabiru also called the Black necked stork

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Part of the entrance fee of $37 was a boat trip on their man made lagoon. The seating in the boat was stepped so that passengers on the inside rows could see over the top of those by the window. The boat wasn’t full anyway so we could move from side to side.

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a female croc

During the cruise a commentary was provided by the driver, informing us on the physical facts and behaviour of the crocodiles. The lagoon had about 20 crocodiles living in it mostly females. The driver fed the crocs with chicken tied to a string on the end of a pole. They leapt out of the water to reach the chicken. They are a fascinating creature and  look so prehistoric, I wouldn’t like to meet one in the wild.

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Most of the females were about 2.5 metres long, its only the male that grow to a length between 3 and 5 metres
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Ted a 4.3 metre male salty

We watched an interesting snake demonstration where the animated guide showed us a variety of venomous and non venomous snakes.

Other enclosures held cassowary s, koalas, tropical birds , freshwater crocs fish and spiders.

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this fellow looked a  little depressed standing in the corner of his enclosure

Hartleys was a very interesting place and well worth the money.

Later in the afternoon John and Mick attempted to play 9 holes at the Yorkeys Knob golf course but a sudden downpour put an end to their game early. Roz walked around with the boys while I grocery shopped as we are going to brave the elements tomorrow and go out to the reef. Hope the wind drops!

Salt and pepper salmon for dinner with fresh vegies.

 

8th October Yorkeys Knob

sunny 20 – 25 knts

No good to go out today again as the waves are still rolling in through the entrance of the marina and the wind is very strong. It was another morning of phone calls and emails interspersed with a walk up the street to the local cafe for a late breakfast.

The boys spent part of the morning getting fishing gear organised and replacing the line that we lost on the last trip.

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unraveling a tangle of line

We took a drive to Palm Cove further up the coast and stopped at a bar come cafe for a couple of beers and some very tasty bar snacks.

Back to the marina and up to the club for dinner where we had another round of bar snacks then were visited by a fellow from the charter boat opposite who comes from Gippsland.

PS The guest blogger declined to blog.

7th October Yorkeys Knob

Wind 20  – 25 knts SE overcast morning the forecast is for strong winds until Mon

Mick and Roz had booked into accommodation in Cairns as they had arrived late last night so we met them in town to join them for breakfast. Even though the wind was blustery it was pleasant to stroll along the boardwalk in front of the marina catching up on news from the south.

We ate breakfast at cafe one and although they forgot to cook our meals without a long wait then a reminder we enjoyed the simple fare.

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Breakfast

John and I drove back to Yorkeys to finish our replies to the lawyer and conference with him until Mick and Roz arrived mid afternoon.

John, Mick and Roz enjoyed a couple of  relaxing drinks overlooking the ocean from the club verandah before we went to dinner . Driftaway restaurant is part of the yacht club and appears to do a roaring trade nightly. Meals were good value for money especially as we get 5% off as part of the marina hospitality.

After unsuccessfully raiding the chocolate machine we retired to O’vive for nightcaps and you guessed it, Chocolate. Mick ruined John’s last hope of getting chocolates by tilting the machine. Kids!!

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I think we spent $10 to get 10 chocolates, at least we didnt get kicked out

Tomorrow we might get a guest blogger.

Sailing North